Sewing a Mask

 

Supplies needed:  scrap fabric, elastic

It is helpful to have 2 different fabrics, so that when your are wearing it, 

you always know which side goes by your face.  

Print and cut out this pattern.  For an adult, the measurement on the edge should be a little over 5". 

Fold fabrics in half, layer, and pin pattern piece to them. 

When you are done cutting them out, you should have 4 pieces. 

Pin the fronts, right sides together, then pin the backs, right sides together. 

Sew the curved seam only, at 1/4".  Repeat for front and back pieces.  

 This is the seam that will go over your nose and chin. 

Using a pressing ham, or a rolled up towel in the shape of a ball, press the curved seam with seam allowances out.  It will take a little time and be a little frustrating, but get it the best you can. 

Press the front and back seams. 

Now, lining up the seams, pin the front piece and the back piece together. 

Then pin the rest of the mask together. 

Using a 1/4" seam allowance again, this time sew the top and bottom of the mask.  

Do not sew the sides that go by your ears yet. 

O.k., if your ends are still open, turn the mask right side out.   If you accidentally sewed them shut, this will be an opportunity to spend some time with your seam ripper.  Go ahead and unpick them :)  You should be able to turn both ends out like this.  

Using a chopstick or similar object, push the seams out by pressing the chopstick along them.  

Press one half of the mask at a time, working from the end to the middle.  

Stop at the middle and turn mask to do the other side.  

Fold the ends of the mask in 1/2" and finger press and then press with the iron. 

Now pin your elastic inside your fold.  You will need to experiment to see what length works for you, but starting with 7" should be plenty.  It also depends on how much stretch your elastic has. 

This time, topstitch with about a 1/8" stitch, all the way around the mask.  You can backstitch over the elastic parts to give them extra stability. 

Here is the finished mask!  :)

If you find your mask is too loose, you can sew across the middle of the elastic to shorten it.  Also, you can add these little pvc toggles to make it adjustable.  Amazon sells them Here.  This is the  Elastic used here.  Just hook some thread through the loop and let the thread help you wiggle the elastic through the toggle.  Enjoy :)

SELF BINDING QUILTS

The second easiest way to bind a quilt is a self-binding. Start with one of the layers (front or back) and the batting cut at least 3" smaller than the other.  The bigger piece will be folded twice and rolled to the other side.  This should be done after the quilt has been tied or machine quilted.

Start by folding once, about 3/8-1/2". 

Fold a second time, making sure the binding overlaps the quilt top.

Here is an easy way to do the corners.  As you are folding to the corner, take the folded fabric and fold again to make a triangle-the fold touching the quilt top. 

Then start rolling the next side.

  It gives a nice mitered look.

Here the self binding is all pinned, and yes, I got ahead of myself and had to un-pin it to quilt it first.

After quilting or tying, go ahead and sew the binding on.  I like to use a wavy stitch and make sure the stitch goes to the edge of the binding so it can slip undone.

It looks like this:

Binding All Done!  ;)

NO BINDING QUILTS - #1 for EASY :)

Quilts are so fun!  There are so many options and different kinds to make.  Quilting is my favorite kind of sewing :)  

No binding quilt:

This is the easiest and quickest kind of way to make a quilt.  Cut 2 fabric pieces the size you want (or use a quilt top you have peiced), and cut batting to match.  Lay fabric pieces, right sides together, and then lay batting on top.

Pin all around.  I like to put the pins far enough away from the edges that I don't have to worry about moving them as I sew around.  I also like to put to pins going the opposite direction, like a gate, to remind me to leave an opening for turning.  I start at one end of my "gate" and sew around the quilt until I reach the other side of the "gate".  

It's easier to sew if the batting is on the bottom, where the feed dogs can help push it through and it's not getting caught in the presser foot :)  I like to do a 5/8" seam allowance.

Clip corners and any overhanging batting.  

Turn quilt right side out.  Push corners out all the way.  

Pin opening shut.  Stitch with about 1/4" topstitch.  Yay!!!!  No binding!!!  :)  

Can either machine quilt or tie. This batting says it needs to be quilted or tied every 4 inches. 

Self-binding quilt:

Binding quilt:

Project 1 - Service - Pillowcases

What you will need:
3/4 yard of main fabric
1/4 yard border fabric

Step 1: Making sure the selvage edges are lined up, measure 27 - 30 inches and cut both ends nice and even.

Step 2:
Matching selvage edges (see those white sides?), cut a 9" strip for the border.

Fold the border fabric in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.  Pin to right side of pillow case.

Sew border to pillowcase all the way along the edge with a 5/8" seam allowance.

Sew again with a zigzag stitch on the edge to prevent ravelings.  Press seam.

Fold pillowcase in half, right sides together, and pin last 2 edges to be sewn.  Sew seams, then zigzag edges to prevent raveling.

Press.

All Done!!!

Project 2 - Comfort Quilts

Patchwork Quilt

What you will need:
3/4 yard each of 4 different coordinating cotton fabrics for front
2 yards cotton fabric for back (or a twin sheet)
1 package natural cotton quilt batting size small, (45 X 60")
Cotton crochet thread to tie quilt layers together
Hand sewing needle with a fairly large eye

Pick Coordinating Fabrics

Step 1:  If you are using flannel fabric, be sure to prewash as it shrinks.  Cut fabric in 12 inch squares.  If you are using a rotary cutter and mat, be sure to put your folded edge of fabric on side to be cut last, as you will need to unfold it to get all your squares needed.  If you forget, you will need to sew the pieces back together to make your squares.  This picture shows the selvage edges being cut first.

This shows what is left after you cut your first square.  

The left side will be unfolded to cut your other square. 

Like this:

Cut all squares.  You should end up with 24 squares.

Arrange squares in design you would like.

If you have to put quilt away before sewing, this is how you can stack it:

Bring each piece on top of the piece next in the row, leaving about 1" showing.  Stack each row,   Put a safety pin in the top left square so you know where your top row is.  It would be helpful to put a safety pin in each square on the left side to help 

After stacking each row, stack rows carefully on top of each other, leaving about 2" showing.  

Make sure pin is on top.

Pin squares right sides together, 

 sew with 1/2" seam allowance. 

Sew first row together.  Press seams allowances open.

Sew 2nd Row, line up with first row and make sure 

the squares are in the right place.  

If not, unpick and fix. 

Place rows with  right sides together. 

 Match up seams and pin in place. 

 Pin Rows together and sew.

Press seam allowances open. 

Continue with rows until quilt top is finished.

 If you want to make a small size for baby, you can use 

half of the squares :)

 Unroll the batting and lay out on quilt back.  

(I used a sheet for my back-remove the hems)

 If you want to wrap the back to the front for the binding, your quilt needs to look like this.  Back is a couple of inches bigger than batting and front. 

If you want to wrap the front to the back, it needs to look like this.  

Top overlaps back by a couple of inches. 

After making your quilt sandwich-back, batting, top, pin each square, going through all layers.  Turn quilt over to see if you have any wrinkles.  As you can see, this one did, so I had to unpin certain parts and pull the backing and batting straight.  It is helpful if someone can help you lay out the quilt and if you both pull from opposite side at the same time on the bottom layer and then the batting.  This helps get the wrinkles out.  

Prepare to tie quilt with crochet cotton in coordinating color.  

Cut a piece of paper, 5" square to use as a guide.  Place in middle of square and put a little mark at each corner.  This is where you will tie your knots. 

Pull a length of thread about 2 arm lengths long.   Thread through eye of needle and pull until both ends meet.  Take a "bite "of quilt-going through all layers, as shown below.

Now make a square knot, going right over left, 

and then left over right.  

Pull it tight against the fabric each time to get a good, close knot.  

Right over left (above).  Pull it tight (below). 

Left over right (below).  Pull it tight, Don't cut it yet :)

 For 2nd knot, take a "bite" of fabric,  pull it tight, then you will do a square knot be either going left and then right, or top and then bottom.  This picture shows the loop going on the bottom and then bring the needle under the tight strands and up through the hole.  (Below)

Now loop thread around the top and bring needle under tight threads and up through the loop.  Pull tight.  (Below)

I like to keep making knots until I run out of thread.  

It goes faster this way.  

Cut threads about 1 1/2" long, or how ever you like them.  

Just don't get them too short-they might come undone easier.  

Finish tying all of squares.  Now it is time to do the binding around the outside!  

Too Be Continued......